Cleveland Way - March 28-April 6 2008

(Increase the text size from the menu bar if the writing is too small.)
MY STAR RATINGS EXPLAINED:
Places:   * -
Not worth stopping; ** - things to see; *** - don't miss
Accommodation    & Food: * - I'd find somewhere else; ** - OK; *** I'd definitely stay here again

DAY PLACES Notes miles total miles Walk Stay (for 2) B&B Review Food Food Review
1 ***
Arrive HELMSLEY
Helmsley is a very attractive small town if a bit twee and touristy but there is lots to see and we still haven't been into the Castle.  (approx) - The B&B seemed a very long way from the centre when we arrived lugging our heavy bags but we got the walk between Carlton Rd and the centre down to just over five minutes by that evening. ***
RED ROOFS

70
 
Lovely large room (best of the trip). Good breakfast with good yoghurt and fruit.  Interesting genial hosts. **
The Feathers
I can't remember much about the evening meal at the Feathers and forgot to keep the bill but we agreed it was nothing special.  Price also was middling if I recall aright. We've eaten at The Crown before (also OK - nothing special - and now closed I understand) and the Black Swan is very expensive, so we'll try the Royal Oak next time we visit Helmsley.
2 ***
SUTTON BANK
There's nothing much where we actually stayed next to the Hambleton Inn but the view from Sutton Bank (a mile further on is impressive).  We had planned to walk to the White Horse in the afternoon/evening but the weather was too bad so we didn't make it. 8.5 8.5 It's only about 7.5 miles but we did the half mile each way detour to RIEVAULX *** (don't miss).  Expensive (but nice) coffee and cake at Rievaulx.  Walking very easy - farmland and riverside - nothing special except a good view of Helmsley if you look back at the start..  We set off in sunshine but arrived in pouring rain. c.5 hours (includes detour). **
Cote Faw

42
Now closed as the landlady has retired.
ALTERNATIVE: High House Farm - we tried to get in here but Mrs. Hope  was busy.
Room was a bit cramped as any   extra space taken up with additional bed. No en suite but it was cheap and the breakfast was good. ***
Hambleton Inn
The Hambleton Inn was the surprise of the trip because the food was much better than expected.  Highlight was the Ploughmans Lunch and the Soup we had for lunch.  We went back for dinner which was not quite as good - lamb cutlets not as succulent as they could be but the other dish was fine and they gave us complimentary garlic bread while we were waiting (we were too full to order a starter or pud).
3 ***
OSMOTHERLEY
Lovely village with a Walkers' shop, Post Office (threatened with closure) and three pubs. 12 20.5 An easy mostly flat and well-surfaced walk with a steep downhill at the end EXCEPT that we had to navigate SNOW FIELDS at the start and a lot of mud throughout which slowed us down.  Weather cold with sleet at start, blue skies and sun at end. c.6.5 hours **
THREE TUNS

85
Pleasant room with spacious bathroom - bath but no shower. Good breakfast.  Friendly service. ** Three Tuns Very good starters and a lovely summer pudding but the main course - especially the roast lamb could have been better.  Usually it is the roast beef that lets the meal down but the beef was OK - the lamb unfortunately was tasteless.
4 **
CLAY BANK
We stayed in the hamlet of Urra which is about a mile and a half from the path.  I enjoyed the stay but NOT the walk there after a long day and an exceptionally arduous last few miles with a nasty bit of road walking at the end. 
Weather was lovely - a beautiful sunny day although it got a bit windy in the afternoon.  Spectacular views and lots of people out today unlike previously.
12.5 33 This section is labelled as the most strenuous and up to Lord Stones Cafe (about 7.5 miles along the way) it was not too bad at all and we got there at 1:45 (c. 4 hours) BUT  the last few miles after that were really hard (three steep hills) and  then I lost the main path  through The Wainstones and it took us a longer way round and  we arrived only just in time for dinner at 7 p.m. ***
MALTKILN HOUSE

79 - included three course dinner for two.
Twin Room en suite.  Room for all our bags and stuff.  Three stars for excellent value. Lord Stones Café**
for lunch.

Maltkiln House - 3-course dinner in price.

Sherry, wine with the meal and three courses: lentil soup, beef with vegetables and apple pie, followed by coffee. Kind and interesting hosts.

5 ***
ROSEBERRY TOPPING.
We stayed in this hotel conveniently located at the foot of Roseberry Topping. Sadly, we were too exhausted to climb up there by the time we arrived in the evening! 14 47 Not a difficult walk but dreadfully windy and much too long. First section to Killdale was OK but the last few miles were hard going and the wind at the top by Cook's monument was fierce. The ladies in the café had said the 4 miles would take us 1.5 hrs but it took us three! **
THE KINGS HEAD

85
Room was rather cramped but breakfast very good. Glebe Cottage
for lunch**
The home-made lemon cake was excellent
The Kings' Head**
Restaurant meal in the evening was expensive.
Melon and Seabass***
Crayfish tails and Black Bream**
Vegetables*
6 SLAPEWORTH Again, we stayed here because it was conveniently located and because they had an offer of a meal for two for only £30. 7 54 Shortish walk on a lovely sunny day which was breezy rather than ferociously windy. The only difficult bit was climbing back up onto the moors from Newton-Under-Roseberry. **
FOX & HOUNDS
£89 - included three course dinner for two.
Room was a bit small, slightly tatty and the lights were dimand had a weird bath/shower fitment. But Ok for price. Lots of staff. Picnic lunch at Highcliff nab The three course meal was enormous with huge portions but of very variable quality:
Broth and duck*
Chicken paté and carvery**
Wine and coffee OK.
7 ***
STAITHES
We stayed here for two days because the restaurant had a special two-day B&B deal. But Staithes is an attractive little fishing village and we were ready for a rest. 8.5 62.5 We missed Saltburn (sadly) because we needed to save a day and so we took the shortcut Cleveland Street path from Slapeworth through fields to Skinnigrove where we picked up the coastal path to Staithes.

***
ENDEAVOUR RESTAURANT

&145 - included excellent three course dinner for two.

Three stars for wonderful food. Sadly, it seems to have changed hands and now only offers accommodation. Skinnigrove was a largish village but with NOWHERE to have a cup of tea! We can't remember the details but it was very good - 1st course was halibut; figs with blue cheese and salad; 2nd course: Cod Mousse;  Ray.F
8 REST DAY           Oysters with breadcrumbs, cheese and pancetta covering; Scallops with black pudding
9 ***
WHITBY
Lots to see and do and eat in Whitby. We should have stayed longer! 11.5 74 Walk to Whitby along the coast in reasonable weather and with good views but some hairy steep, climbs alongside precipitous cliffs.

*
Morningside Hotel

72.00

Room OK but nothing special and window looked onto a brick wall.   Breakfast at the Morningside was nothing special and the atmosphere generally was unwelcoming.
10 BACK HOME  

LINKS